How to do an accurate colour analysis
Step by step Colour analysis
Colour analysis has gone through many changes over the last decades.
Some changes are not so good because the colour drapes some consultants are using are a bit dubious and you would have to say open to interpretation. Many colours are added to certain seasons that do not belong.
So let's just go back to basics and highlight a few simple but good and accurate steps to follow a logical path to do a colour analysis and come up with an accurate and good result.
What is a good way to compile a set of drapes, to determine skin tone and value?
We start with a warm shade usually peach and then a cool shade usually pink to denote a cool shade, as the first part of the analysis.
Then there is one of each shade in each season. Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter yellows, and blues, greens whites and reds. There are 22 drapes in all.
The analysis begins by determining the underskin tone.
Is your underkin tone warm or cool?
This is done by the very first part of the colour analysis.
A warm cloth is draped over the client wearing no make up and covered hair.
The hair is covered so as not to confuse warm or cool as the hair may throw warm or cool tones.
This cloth is usually a very predictable warm colour like peach.
A cool cloth is a very definite cool pink. These two drapes are a real decider when it comes to determining underskin tone
What you're looking for at this stage is the cloth that enhances the skin tone and face.
For example which cloth makes the skin appear more even without changing the natural skin colour.
Other things to look for are eye brightness, clarity in eye whiteness. Note if the face turns more red, or dark or pigmented.
Skin imperfections become more obvious with the wrong shade. Teeth will look more yellow with the wrong shade. Shadow will appear under the chin with the wrong shade.
Dark shadows around eyes and under the eyes are more noticeable with the wrong colour.
Once you have made a clear decision about warm or cool, you can then eliminate all warm or all cool shades respectively.
Warm colours are in the Autumn and Spring palettes. Cool colours are in the Winter and Summer Palettes.
The next step is determining the value. By value I mean depth of shades.
The stronger shades are in the (cool) Winter palette and the (warm) Autumn palette.
Winter blue Autumn blue
If you've eliminated all warm colours then obviously you're left with Winter and Summer colours only.
Summer blue
If you eliminate the Deep value of Winter colours then you're left with the softer more muted shades of the Summer palette.
Just a note here. You can see that doing your own colour analysis is not that simple.
In fact over the years I've seen lots of clients that are just plain confused and have no idea what season they are, no matter how hard they try to work their own colours out.
The most important reason for this is because there are over 16million colours and in fact there are an infinite number of colours. Also because it's only experience that helps you to slot those colours into their categories.
Without some pretty in depth experience you're going to find it difficult to determine what is a warm or cool colour and then what is a Winter, Summer, Autumn and Spring colour.
You can have a guess but it's only a true experienced colour consultant who can really identify all the colours correctly.
As much as it's a lot of fun trying to guess or work out your colours, I strongly suggest investing in a one time colour analysis and get your colours right to start with.
For more expert information please contact us.
You may try the online colour analysis for an accurate colour analysis or of course attend my workshops or one on one colour and style analysis.
Five ways to know if you're wearing your Colours.
Getting your Colours right is just so important to your Ultimate Image so read today's blog with 5 ways to tell if you do have them right or not.
How to wear your neutrals
How to wear your neutrals
What is a neutral colour?
I would describe a neutral colour as one that is quite benign. One that's not screaming for attention, and one that's a base for all of your other amazing colours.
Not everyone feels good in a pink and green outfit for example but they may enjoy wearing perhaps a green top with a neutral like grey.
It's good to start your wardrobe with your neutrals then add your colour in next.
But are all neutrals created equal? Definitely not. Many stylists are firm about having a base of dark cool neutrals like black, pure white, greys and navy’s with a splash of brown thrown in. But those neutrals are only found in the Winter Palette. Black doesn't go with everything, as we've been led to believe. And Winter neutrals don't go with Summer, Spring or Autumn neutrals.
As a colour consultant of 20 years, I have found these ideas to be quiet damaging as a whole to the fashion industry. Using black as a style staple is not useful to your Image picture.
Here's an example of working with a warm Autumn neutral and Black a cool dominant neutral to create a mismatched look.
YOU NEED TO FIND YOUR COLOURS AND THEN WORK WITH THE NEUTRALS IN YOUR PALETTE ONLY
For a stylish, complete, co-ordinated wardrobe that suits you down to the ground, you need to work with YOUR neutrals only.
The reason being, neutrals from another palette will not look good on you, and also will not go with the other shades or neutrals in your palette.
THE NEUTRAL COLOUR PALETTES.
Some stylists categorize people as neutrals. But I like to call only colours neutral not people.
Every colour is either a Cool Deep or dominant colour,(Winter) a cool muted colour,(Summer) a deep warm colour (Autumn) or a warm bright colour (Spring)
That's it. Every colour on the planet will slot into one of four palettes only. And you will be one of the four palettes as well. No sub colours or flow people in my opinion. Some colours "flow"but not people.
THE COLOUR SWATCH BOOKS FOR THE FOUR SEASONS
Get your colours right. There is Spring, Summer, Autumn or Winter. What season are you and there is no need for any sub seasons.
You will have thousands of colours to choose from that will all look amazing on you.
So what are the four types of neutrals I’m speaking of?
Warm Deep or Autumn neutrals are lovely deep olive greens, rich creams, clays, golden browns, deep apricots, muddied burgundies and pumpkins to name a few as well as rich warm khakis and golds.
The bright Spring neutrals on the other hand are still warm but much lighter than their deep counterparts, so colours like light soft caramels, light creams, warm light browns, tans, peaches and apricots are part of the Spring neutrals.
Moving into the cooler palettes we have the boldness and clarity of the deep Winter colours, black, pure white, all greys, silvers, dark navys and deep deep browns.
Forget burgundy as some may include in the Winter palette. I reserve that for the muted cool neutrals of Summer. The denim which is a winter denim is dark navy blue.
Summer neutrals are cool and soft and muted. Ones like off whites, soft grey, cool taupes, cool beiges, light cool khakis, burgundy and maroons create a nice base and don’t forget your dusty navy’s. Please don’t forget light denim teams best with these colours.
With all this in mind you can see there is a plethora of colours, considered to be neutral.
So once you know your colours, you can stick to the neutrals within your season for best results. Ask your consultant how to incorporate these into your wardrobe.
It’s always best to get professional advice about your colours and be sure the colours actually “fit”with you.
If your not happy with your results after a colour analysis, my advice would be to get a 2nd and sometimes even a 3rd opinion until you get your colours right.
I have had so many clients over the years who have had their colours done incorrectly.
There is a mindfield of systems now so I hope you find a solution that’s right for you.
HOW TO TELL IF YOU HAVE THE RIGHT COLOURS?
Here are a few checkpoints.
You'll look younger and more attractive in your colours
Your hair colour will compliment your colours
3. Your make up will blend into your skin and not sit on top
4. You will have 100’s and 100’s of colours to choose from
5. You will feel at peace in your colours
6. All the clothes in your wardrobe will coordinate
7. You will have heaps of outfits even if you have a small wardrobe (capsule)
8. You’ll always get compliments about what your wearing
9. You'll find it easier to accessorize and mix and match
You’ll look very stylish all the time.
For more information contact Your Colours and Style Sydney